Drivers/Hardware :: Stop DVD Drive Noise When Going To Sleep?
Sep 20, 2015
When the computer goes to sleep, it accesses the DVD drive (for some reason). It then makes a noise for a second or two, which is pretty annoying. It has no reason to even mess with the DVD drive. I think it is trying to see if there is a disk in there or something (maybe so it knows what to do when it wakes?)
When I use the "Safely Remove Hardware and Eject Media" icon/tool, to remove a USB stick, my internal SSD drive shows as a choice to be removed. How can I get the SSD off this list?
In Device Manager, under Disk Drives, looking at the SSD drive's properties there is no "Removal Policy (i.e. choice of "Quick Removal" or "Better Performance") like the removable hard drive on my laptop has.
Okay, this is a really weird one. For the last 2 months I've been experiencing this reoccurring issue on my new Dell XPS 13 laptop where 1-2 times a day, the audio will suddenly get extremely staticy. It generally will last at least 1 minute but sometimes significantly longer, and will affect all audio, including Windows alert sounds and even the "Playback device" test sound. This affects both the internal laptop speakers and any AUX device. I have not experienced the issue when audio is played through HDMI/DP, but I haven't been able to test it enough to know for certain.
However, there is one exception that I have only discovered today: the audio issue does NOT affect any files played through Win10's new default player, Groove. I have played exactly the same audio file on both VLC and Groove "even concurrently" to confirm.
I've posted a link below to an MP3 recording of it: [URL]
I've spoken to Dell and we have tried countless fixes that I've tried to list below, but the problem persists:
Fresh reinstall of Windows Replaced motherboard (twice?) Uninstalled Realtek audio drivers Updated BIOS Tried changing all settings in the Realtek HD Audio Manager Probably 4-5 other issues
I have Realtek Audio HD driver for sound installed on windows 10. For about a week, my laptop ran with no problems. However, last night there was no sound output into my headphones. I unplugged my headphones, plugged them in again. Still no sound.
I tried my headphones on different computers and phones and sound worked normally. I then tried a different pair of headphones on my laptop and no sound was coming out. The speaker is still functioning normally.
I have since restarted my laptop multiple times, and each time I restart a message saying that "You have changed your settings in BIOS setup. Would you like to restart your computer to apply these changes?"pops up.
Sometimes, my headphones somehow come to life, and sound is able to be played. However, when this occurs there is a lot of background static noise, although the sound quality itself is very good.
Why can Microsoft understand I don't want to use these POS Realtek drivers. I use to disable driver updates from Windows 10 by going into Device Installation settings and Never install drivers from Windows update but now since the last stupid update everytime the POS Realtek drives install automatically no matter how many times I roll back and remove them. I hate the Realtek drives because the audio is super loud and sounds terrible. I just want to use the Microsoft HD Audio Driver which sounds great and uses little resources but no Windows 10 decides that the POS Realtek driver is better.
I am having to use a windwos 8.1 AMD graphics driver because the AMD HD6320 series graphics still has no updated driver from AMD to support windows 10. The video freezes and goes green with the HD6320 driver. The win 8.1 driver works great except windows 10 keep updating and reinstalling the standard driver for the HD6320. I haven't found a way to hide an update in windows 10 like I could in windows 7.
When I was running Windows 7, my system had a small solid state C drive that did not have enough space for windows 10 upgrade. I got a larger 2TB regular hard disk and used the manufacturer's software to clone the old Windows-7 SSD C drive to the new 2TB and then upgraded to Windows 10.
Now under windows 10, when go into defrag, the C Drive shows as a Solid State drive and of course windows does not want to optimize it.
The new drive definitely is not SSD. I assume somehow that setting was cloned from the old disk.
Is there either a way to change the C drive to a regular "hard disk drive" or force windows to defrag what it thinks is a SSD?
Problem: When I click on my H: drive or try to access it from the command line, it gives me an access denied error. However, all of the applications that I have installed on that drive run without issue. So, there is some access there. (See attached images. The first shows the hard drive state in diskmanager and in windows explorer. The second image shows the minecrafter launcher profile (that it is stored in H: and the application running, proving that there is some access.
System: Home built PC: (C:) 240GB SSD for OS, (E:) 1TB HDD for file storage and backup, (H:) 1TB HDD for large applications and video editing files. All drives are Simple, Basic, and none have encryption. All use the SATA connectors.
Process: I had Windows 7 Home 64 bit with, among many other things, Comodo Internet Security, Virtualbox, ImageDisk. During the upgrade process, I noticed that Windows 10, during the upgrade, ran the file system check and fix "problems" on the H: drive.
(Side note) Having forgotten to uninstall Comodo before the upgrade, I did not have network after the upgrade. The fix was non-trivial as I had to use a second computer to download the unofficial comodo uninstaller. Reboot. Uninstall the network devices. Reboot. And once Windows 10 was up and running, it reinstalled the network devices and the network was available.
Still, whether before or after the Comodo uninstall and reinstall, the uninstall of ImageDisk, or the uninstall of the Virtualbox network device, I have no access to the H: drive.
I was moving video files (AVI) from an external backup drive (WD Element) to another external backup drive (Seagate expansion) after having moved another video file from my laptop (Acer) to that Seagate external drive. The night before I had moved some video files from the WD to the Seagate with no problem but using a different laptop (Sony). These video files are all rather large and I can tell that the space is still being allocated on the Seagate because while the folder cannot be seen the space that was there is still being used by the Seagate because I am missing over 100GB which would be about the size of that now missing folder.
What happened was there was a message that the Seagate drive could not be recognized while the files were in the process of being moved to that drive from the WD. This is after I had already moved a video file of about 26GB with no problem into that now missing folder. When I saw the message I attempted several times to move files to that Seagate drive but I could not so I unplugged the Seagate drive from that laptop (Acer) then reinserted it into the usb port. I got a repair message that said it needed to be repaired because some files were corrupted and that no data would be lost but the drive would be unavailable during the repairs so I checked ok. It took only about 30 seconds and it said the repairs were completed and the drive was available but I noticed that the folder that I was moving the video files to was not gone.
As I stated there are more than 100GB of files in that folder some are video and others are audio recordings that were created by using the myrecording (audio and video) features of the Acer laptop and they are very important so I need to figure out if they can be retrieved from that Seagate drive. I have not copied anything else onto that Seagate drive but I have plugged it into the Acer computer to ensure it is being recognized. Both the external drives WD and Seagate are plug and play that are powered from the usb -- they have no power adapters.
Pen Drive and external hard drive keep getting errors! So I select to fix the problem scandrive recommended scan and repair. But there's never anything wrong with them it reports! And it takes ages to scan it takes 10-15 minutes for 32GB pen drive. Windows 7 Pro done it in a flash! Anything I can do about it.
I have just set up a mirror drive(software RAID1) and want to change the drive letter. I am getting a message "The parameter is incorrect". I am wondering if I am stuck with the one assigned when the mirror drive was set up.
I just updated my laptop to Windows 10 and I'm having an issue with the driver for my fingerprint reader. Windows 10 keeps installing the latest driver software for it rather then the version that I manually installed. The problem with the newest driver is that it disables finger print sign in and windows hello. I had the same issue in Windows 8 but I was able to just go into Windows Update and disable the update, with Windows 10 I can't do that.
Can I stop windows(10) from automatically installing drivers for my Radeon graphics card? I have an HP dv6 with switchable graphics and I only want to have the Intel HD 3000 graphics working because whenever I install the drivers for the Radeon graphics the laptop will not boot into windows on the next reboot.I have uninstalled the drivers but it keeps re-installing it and the screen flickers every time it installs it.
My USB Ports stop working the second windows start to load. My logitech g710 & G502 light up and work fine in the motherboard BIOS but the second windows starts to load the stop working. I have been using a PS/2 Keyboard to navigate through the OS. I have restore windows. I have install a fresh build of windows. I have updated the motherboard BIOS. I have updated to the latest drives in my device manager and still no luck.
Intel 4690K Cool Master Hyper 212 Evo MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition 16GB G. Skill Ripjaws X Series 250GB Samsung SSD 850 Evo 2 EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB
This has happened a lot since my upgrade to Windows 10, and it's really starting to get on my nerves. Seemingly randomly, my keyboard will stop responding to what I type, and my touchpad completely stops as well (no, I did not accidentally click to disable it). These problems will never resolve themselves on their own, but as soon as I reset the computer everything works again - to me, that sounded like a driver crash, but nope! I checked the driver menu and it told me everything was running just fine. What's even more strange is that I have the backlight keyboard enabled so that when I type, it lights up. And strangely, the keys still light up when I press them, so I know it's registering my typing SOME how.
You would also think that this would be a software problem since it fixes immediately upon reset, but I've noticed that this issue seems to crop up a lot right after I have moved my computer..
In order to possibly do testing on what is causing this (I've tried everything I can think of) I am purposely not resetting my computer (this is a touch screen, but this on-screen keyboard typing is obnoxious). Currently, both keyboard and touchpad don't work, but a usb mouse I use does (the computer is also set so that using the usb mouse does not disable the touchpad).
I have a year-old Lenovo G500 laptop, and recently it started doing this loud, buzzing sound quite often, even when there's only one program opened. I checked CPU and disk usage the first few times it happened, but they're fairly low. I'm not exactly sure if the sound is coming from a fan or is it HDD. I do know for sure that the fan isn't dusty, when I brought it to a tech shop they told me there's no need for a cleaning.
My laptop makes an annoying beeping noise when plugging in the charger or removing it. In Windows 7/8, if you went to your speaker properties and then levels, you could mute PC speaker and that took care of it. Don't see that option anymore.
My laptop, the Lenovo Ideadpad Y510p has been making two different noises ever since I've had it since last year. One is a "beep" which will emit either when I open the lid to wake it from sleep mode (which is normal), but it also makes this one beep during random times while I'm just surfing the internet. It will happen whether I'm watching a video on youtube or just reading articles/blogs online and scrolling through forums. It just happens and it seems to happen quite frequently, but only once and then it won't happen for many hours.
I did a S.M.A.R.T. test like I've seen people recommend doing that had this same problem on their computers and it passed. I also downloaded Speccy and I think this is it: [URL] ....
The second noise happens when I'm gaming (as this is a gaming laptop, just not up to the quality of today's games), but can continue even when I'm typing like right now. This noise comes directly from my power adapter as I am holding it to my ear right now and it is making this continuous low humming sound (almost like brakes screeching on a highway but from far way because it is not too loud). So I'm assuming that I may need to replace the power adapter, but then I guess to do that I would need to contact Lenovo.
Also, just remembered. This is a minor issue, but it is kind of annoying. It did not happen before, but now it does. What happens is when I open a program for the very first time, like iTunes, Steam, or Chrome, anything. The display is kind of blurry and funky looking. But when I right-click iTunes for instance, go to Properties, Compatibility, and then check the box for "Disable display scaling on high DPI settings" the program looks fine just like my native resolution. It is a fix, but I have to do it for every time I open a new program that I just downloaded for the very first time.
I have recently bought a new motherboard (ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming) and a new CPU (i5-6600K). After I formatted the system to start fresh, I installed a minimum of drivers before upgrading from Windows 7 to 10. Now, the problem is that EVERY time I playback any kind of sound (music, youtube, or just the speaker tests in Windows), a brief crackling or scratching noise is heard although the audio quality afterwards is fine. When playback stops, the same crackling or scratching sound comes once again. If I open youtube and keep a video open in a tab, the crackling/scratching noise never comes. If I close the browser with the youtube video open, the noise comes.
So far I've tried this: - disable all sound effects (under enhancement in speaker properties) - change the default format to the lowest (16 bit, 44100 Hz) - uninstall and reinstall the Realtek High Definition Audio driver - tried different headphones, earplugs, speakers - tried different audio ports (front and rear)
I'm currently not sure whether the problem is caused by Windows 10 or the motherboard, although I have not tested it in Windows 7.
my computer will randomly freeze without any warning. I've tried a lot of things to find the source of this issue, I tested my gpu my cpu and my ram, none of them are the reason. And from what I've noticed i'm not the only person with the issue and the issue seems to be common to windows 10.
So, today I we're gonna go on skype on a friend, instantly when calling he complained that it sounded like someone shoved up a drill inside his ear.
I went on steam sound test and all I heard was : Static/buzzing noise.I tried reinstalling realtek HD audio drivers which didn't work.Unplugging and plugging in the mic didn't work either.Changing mic boost settings didn't work either...
The mic is not a USB mic, it is plugged in to the front of the pc using the mic and headset ports.The sound however is working fine.Mic works perfect in my mac when using some kind of turn 2 cables into 1 thing. The mic does pick up sounds but it seems to be losing pretty much 99% of it's quality on it's way into the speakers/headset.
I just recently updated. I then created a boot disk and performed a clean install. I use a Razor Black Widow Ultimate keyboard and a Logitech G9x laser mouse. I can reboot, I can shut down and restart and everything seems to work fine. But, after leaving the pc off all night and start in the morning I have no mouse or keyboard. This has happened Saturday morning, Sunday morning and yet again today. Fortunately, I have Acronis backup of my install, so when this happens I just re-image the hard drive and start searching for solutions again.
I have the latest Logitech mouse drivers and running Razor Synapse for keyboard software.
The latest thing I have done is disable fast boot but have not had it shut down long enough to see if it fixes the issue.