I own a Gigabyte P34G V2, and it's a laptop, but it's been designed with a special USB 3.0 port to use for charging. This port should charge at 1 amp, compared to a usual USB 3.0 port's 0.5, But it has some odd behavior on my Winodws 10 OS for me.
So, the Gigabyte Smart Manager I have has charging enabled, for sleep and hibernation, everything on, and I got a USB power checker to check voltage and amperage.
Every other port on the laptop does 0.44 Amps, but this port refuses to work properly.
When plugging it in, it will spike up to 0.88, and then stop outputting power altogether, before turning back on at 0.44 Amps.
I post this in the Windows 10 section because I believe the issue has to deal with drivers, and not with the hardware or anything, I have BIOS settings set for it to charge as well.
Basically my gaming laptop (Msi gs70 Stealth) turned off suddenly when I accidentally knocked out the charging cable and then I couldn't turn it back on unless I put it back in, so I wouldn't be surprised if I have a battery problem but that's not even my biggest concern.
My biggest concern is that after I turned it back on my D: drive was straight up gone from my files, all icons to it broken just plain gone. I checked my files and the C: drive was fine but there was nothing next to it where the D: drive always was before. I was obviously very worried so I decided to the standard "lets hope this fixes it" solution and restarted the computer. This time as it loaded up it started to scan and repair the D: drive so I let it do its thing. 5 hours later it finishes and I go to check to see if the D: drive is back... but nothing it still was not there and I couldn't access it.
Windows 10 is definitely the best desktop OS ever. I found one improved feature really annoying when you work with a small screen. The advanced aero-snap function to automatically re-size four windows into 2x2 arrangement.
However, since windows 7, I get used to use 2x1 snap on my laptop. So, is there any way to disable the 2x2 snap and turn it back to 2x1 snap no matter you snap to a corner or an edge of the desktop?
I have a strange issue where after a full shut down in Windows 10, the motherboard is still delivering power to my connected devices such as my headset, keyboard, mouse and monitors i.e. all the lights on these devices are still on, whereas previously in Win7 they would all turn off.
I did an in-place upgrade from Win7-Win10 and adjusted no motherboard BIOS settings.
I've looked through the Win10 power options and can;t see anything relating to keeping devices on after a shut down. I assume this is so USB devices like phones and tablets can charge from USB when the PC is off? However I don;t need this feature if that's the intention.
Is windows 10 (vs win7) sending a different command back to the MB on a shutdown?
Not sure where to put this but I have just received an email from ms saying I have reached the device limit for my ms account after installing win 10. On the list is a vm which I have removed and a 64 bit version of win 8.1 which is on another account. What is this all about says I am limited in the store.
I want to put a Seagate 4tb sshd in to my PC as a boot drive so I can install Windows 10 Pro when it's available. But, as I recall, Windows 7 max boot drive space without partition was 2tb. Does Windows 10 have the same limitation?
A while back I accidently kicked out the power cord from my laptop which damaged the power connector. It still worked, it charged just fine, but whenever the connector was plugged in, the "power connector is not plugged in properly" warning kept popping up even though the laptop was charging just fine. The other strange thing is that the warning box would be translucent and flickering and I couldn't close it. I could click on another window to send it to the back but couldn't close the warning box except in Task Manager. It would shortly pop up again anyway.
So I finally got the connector replaced thinking that would solve the problem but it didn't. The warning box constantly and randomly pops up while charging making me think that maybe the motherboard suffered some damage too.
Rather than pay to replace the motherboard, is it possible to simply disable this warning? I really don't need to know if the connector is plugged in properly, it's hard not to plug it in properly and if it's not charging I will find out eventually via low power warnings.
I've just done a clean install of W10 on my Dell Inspiron 7537 laptop. I turned off the laptop last night when the battery was about half discharged.
I tried turning on the laptop today after it had been off 18 hours and it was completely dead - there was no response to the power on button and no charging light despite the charger outputting the correct voltage.
I read online about removing the battery so I did this. I removed the battery, pressed the power button for 60s then plugged in the power lead and hey presto the laptop started! I then put the battery back in and started W10 fine. The battery showed 56% charge so the battery wasn't flat.
I can only think there was a poor battery connection which prevented the laptop starting and removing and replacing the battery cured this.
I did a search and only found hits referring to a metered and/or WiFi connection, neither of which applies to me.
I have only a (nominal) 2Mbps connection -- which is the fastest available in my neighborhood. This has been a problem with Windows updates all along, but since I've upgraded to Win10, the trouble is exacerbated to the point that the internet is sometimes unusable when I'm getting an update from MS. This is especially problematic in that my spouse works online for a living, so MS eating up the bandwidth affects her job directly.
So, my question is in two parts:
1. Is there any setting whereby I can limit the download speed of the Windows updates? I don't wish to defer or stop any, just make them very low priority for bandwidth.
2. Is there any setting/switch I can toggle that will show (like the old flag icon in Win7) that there are Windows Updates downloading, so that I can tell whether any internet sluggishness is because of Windows or just the connection itself (which, living here the Third World, is far from constant). I'm hoping to document these fluctuations for an ongoing attempt to get better service from our ISP.
I realize this isn't really the place to lodge a complaint with Microsoft, but it sure would be nice if they (and other international software companies) would consider those of us who do not live in Redmond, Chattanooga, or other places with light-speed internet connections when they set things up.
I joined the insider program last year and basically upgraded to all builds from the very first public build. Before then, I was using Windows 8.1 PRO on my Asus Vivobook which was legit (pro license through my school's DreamSpark program).
I was on buil 10240 and decided to download the media creator tool for Windows 10 and chose the first option which was Upgrade my PC.
I chose to keep nothing. It installed, I logged in Windows is not activated. I try installing / updating apps from the store and it won't work. Each time, I get an email from Microsoft saying Device limit reached for installing apps & games. I removed 2 devices.
Now I have 2 devices running Windows 10, the Lumia 822 on insider preview, and Windows 10 Laptop and still have the same issue.
so I UPGRADED MY PC TO WINDOWS 10, AND I IMMEDIATELY GET THIS MESSAGE.
It looks like you've reached your device limit for installing apps and games from the Store on your Windows 10 device. If you want to install apps and games from the Store on another Windows 10 device, remove a device from the device list.
I have 1 device using Windows 10, and 1 computer at work running the insider preview, that's it.
So is this a sneaky [adjective removed ]you catch from Microsoft, I cannot have Windows 10 installed on more than 1 device ?
Ever since I updated to Windows 10, I've been having this issue. On computer start up with the TV on and set to the computer source, it works fine. As soon as we switch the TV source or turn the TV off we lose the audio when we go back to the computer source. The Philips TV I use as my monitor disappears from the available sound sources, and I have a red x in the volume setting on the task bar.
Rebooting the computer is the only way I've found to bring the sound back. This is the exact same computer and TV I used with no issues for over a year before upgrading to Windows 10.
I have installed the latest realtek audio driver listed on this site. I have used the ACER care centre to look for updates, but it says there are none. I've also tried switch out from the realtek to the standard windows driver, but nothing has solved the problem.
I have an ACER XC-605 media PC. Operating system : ,Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64-bit Processor : ,Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-4130 CPU @ 3.40GHz Memory : ,6GB Graphics device : ,Intel(R) HD Graphics 4400 Audio device 1 : ,Intel(R) Display Audio Audio device 2 : ,Realtek High Definition Audio
I ran into this problem while on Win7 & found a fix (YouTube - Apple Keyboard Hack - Fully-powered USB ports on a PC!) . Unfortunately, the YouTube video has been removed. I use an Apple keyboard that has 2-USB ports, one on each side of the keyboard. The power limits for these USBs was 100mA on Win7 so using a mouse is OK. But, if I plug in a USB drive or better yet my Wacom Tablet I get an error stating the power is too low to support. I believe the ports need to be 500mA.
I don't recall exactly how the YouTube author changed the registry key value but he did & I used these 2 USBs without problems for 4 years. I'm having trouble finding the USB location using run / regedit. Below are two screen grabs I used in my post 4 years ago. Windows 10 looks a lot different. Anyway, the USB I need is port 3 hub 7. How to navigate the registry key to that location & edit from 100mA to 500mA.
Updated my wife's laptop with windows 10 and now is missing the battery meter (charging, power left also no warning on screen when low power) going to the notification area properties the option to turn power icon is completely greyed out and unselectable. Fully up to date and have ran a sweep for errors with SFC/scannow and returned no errors.
Just got Windows 10 upgraded (won't go into the insanity that involved). So far it works, nothing to write home about but it runs......
I've largely figured out how to get adequate colors for pieces of windows and such, but:
I'm on large monitors and the icons in the taskbar are miniscule. And YES, they are NOT set to use SMALL icons... I'm looking for a way to get LARGER icons WITHOUT reducing resolution or doing anything else to the displays...
Aero snap is marginally useful, but NOT when you're using multiple monitors. HOW do I make aero snap limit itself to ONE monitor? I DON'T want it to pull windows that are on monitor two onto monitor 1 when I snap a window. I JUST want it to work with the windows on the monitor I snap a window on.
So, how do I customize these couple basic things so Windows 10 is a bit more productive?
I recently upgraded Windows 7 to Windows 10. When I power down the system from the menu, my computer does not completely turn off. The procedure I use is described below:
Click Windows_Start_button > Power > Shutdown
The system closes applications and appears to initiate a shutdown procedure. Everything appears to be shut off, but my mouse is still lit up. I do notice that the fan stops and everything else appears to be completely shut down. When I was running Windows 7 before my upgrade, my system completely powered down.
I have a dual boot system with Linux, and when I power down from Linux, the shutdown is complete, so I don't think I accidentally did anything to the hardware or BIOS.
The new Parental Control system is generally a big step forward, though I disagree with the kids having to have an email / Microsoft account and would prefer to be able to leverage local accounts.
One area that could do with a little tweak is around the Screen Time. Specifically, I may want to allow my child an hour a day of general screen time, but limit access to a particular game / app to 1 hour per week to stop them getting obsessed. Sure I can just block them after the fact, but it would be better to allow you to define the rules up-front.
I have all the setting I can find that when I close lid to laptop it does nothing when plugged in. I have it set to do not sleep unless I tell it too period. Yes went through 'all' settings. So it will run scans, maintenance etc during night but like lid closed. But when I get up and open lid it wants me to sign back in and scan say it couldn't run.
I did a reset on my windows 10, then suddenly it went blank screen cant reboot so i decided to unplugged it , when i try to turn it back on cpu not getting any power fans arent moving either
The Power options on the Start Menu has 3 items: Sleep, Shut down and Restart. I've created a shortcut to lock the screen, which is on the desktop. Is it possible to include it in the Power options?
This has gone from bad to worse. It started with an error message when I went to close down, to the effect that the Start Button wasn't working and would reset on restart. I restarted; it didn't reset. I could use programs but the Start button still wouldn't work. I tried to restart in Safe Mode, but the computer wouldn't go into Safe Mode -- I got the screens that let me select reset but the final step that would select Safe Mode with Networking just got skipped. I'm a little sketchy on what I did next (I got kind of ticked and had to step away from the computer for about a week to cool off, and I'm afraid I didn't write out a history while it was still fresh in my mind) but I tried a variety of things to force it to start in Safe Mode and the result is that it doesn't start at all now: the power light comes on, but the screen stays blank and there's no action on the drives. Should I use my laptop to create a USB Recovery Drive to start the desktop computer on?
